NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK PROGRAMS
Pilot and Photo John Scurlock
This is our happy place. At more than 500,000 acres, the North Cascades National Park consists of a lifetime of Alpine Mountaineering and Alpine Rock Climbing. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. This offers an attractive climbing venue with significant relief and majestic views. The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park.
Important Note: North Cascades National Park is broken into Backcountry Zones. These zones require backcountry permits that are first come first serve. This year The Mountain Bureau has secured permits to access Eldorado peak, Forbidden Peak, Sahale Mountain, Sharkfin Tower, and Boston Peak. We also have dates for Mt. Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier Route or Fisher Chimneys Route. If you are looking for a bigger challenge we also have dates to access multiple peaks from Boston Basin, including the Torment-Forbidden-Traverse. If our selected dates don’t work for you, please request custom dates for your trip and we can apply for a lottery spot.
Johannesburg Mountain in the background during an ascent of the Torment-Forbidden-Traverse Photo: Mark Allen
FEATURED NORTH CASCADE CLIMBS
All of Our Featured Climbs are Scheduled Public Programs and can be purchased as Custom Trips
Mt. Shuksan’s Sulphide Glacier route and summit pyramid. A Great climbing and skiing objective. Photo John Scurlock
Mount Shuksan - 9131FT / 2783m
SULPHIDE GLACIER (II 5.3-glacier travel) -MOUNTAINEERING ROUTE
Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. This non-valcanic North Cascades Peak offers access to a wide span of glaciated and rock terrain for climbing. Begin your program in Skagit River Valley, hike through glacial valleys shrouded in cascades and onto the upper glacial plateau. On summit day cross the expansive Sulphide Glacier and scramble the rocky summit pyramide. This is predominantly a mountaineering route but the rock pyramid bumps this climb into a lower guide-to-client ratio. SHUKSAN SAMPLE ITINERARY LINK
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-6:3
Standard Duration: 3-days+ 1/2 day prep
Forbidden Peaks West (left) and East (Right) ridges in Fall conditions. Photo: John Scurlock
FORBIDDEN PEAK 8815Ft / 2686M
WEST RIDGE-(III 5.6) - ALPINE ROCK
Forbidden is one of the 50-classic climbs in North America and for all the right reasons. No single move is terribly difficult but the combined volume of technical alpine rock and glaciers make this a challenging but attainable undertaking. From a remote basecamp in a high alpine meadow you will ascend glaciers and transition into technical rock climbing. Your team will attempt to gain the West Ridge with ultra-classic position and high quality rock. This your chance to climb one of the most prized summits in the North Cascades. FORBIDDEN PEAK SAMPLE ITINERARY LINK
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2
Standard Duration: 3-days+ 1/2 day prep
The jagged skyline and two summits of the TORMENT-FORBIDDEN-TRAVERSE. Photo: Mark Allen
TORMENT-to-FORBIDDEN (TFT) 8815Ft / 2686M
Crest Traverse (V 5.7) -ALPINE ROCK
One of the longest and most scenic ridge-crest traverses in the North Cascades. The TFT is quickly becoming a Cascadian alpinist’s right of passage. This is not for the faint of heart and requires our climbers to dig deep and rely on their training as It is our most technical public offering. Use public transportation and tie into a 3-day guided climb with on route bivi(s). You and your team have to move and you must come light allowing you to flow through jagged terrain on moderate alpine rock to reach your perch for each night. This is a committing route with 1.5mi of technical climbing above 7,000ft of elevation and bagging two 8000ft summits, first Torment then Forbidden. TORMENT-FORBIDDEN SAMPLE ITINERARY LINK
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2
Standard Duration: 4-days+ 1/2 day prep
DETAILS
2020 SEASON
Late June-Early October
DURATION
Standard length 3-4 day climb + 1/2 day prep (required)
Custom trip length available
EXCLUDES
Transportation to and from meeting points
Personal climbing and camping equipment
Lunches and snacks on the mountain
INCLUDES
Guide securing your Backcountry Zone Permit
Professional Guide working within their Scope of Practice
All breakfasts and dinners on mountain
Tents
Stoves and Fuel
Climbing Racks and Ropes
Emergency communications
CUSTOM GUIDING RATES
ALPINE ROCK OR ICE ROUTES (Up to 2:1 Climber to Guide Ratio, Max 4 climbers)
1-Climber $749.00 day/climber (1 Guide)
2-Climbers $449.00 day/climber (1 Guide)
3-Climbers $549.00 day/climber (2 Guides)
4-Climbers $449.00 day/climber (2 Guides)
MOUNTAINEERING ROUTES (Up to 5:1 Climber to Guide Ratio, Max 10 climbers)
1-Climber $749.00 day/climber
2-Climbers $449.00 day/climber
3-Climbers $349.00 day/climber
4-Climbers $299.00 day/climber
5-Climbers $299.00 day/climber
6+ Climbers - Contact Us for Pricing
PREREQUISITE EXPERIENCE AND SKILLS
MOUNTAINEERING PREREQUISITES
PREVIOUS Multi-pitch climbing and repelling required as well as sound movement skills.
Moderate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 7000ft’
Ability to carrying a heavy pack (up to 35-40 lbs)
ALPINE ROCK and ALPINE ICE PREREQUISITES
Rappelling Experience
Climbing 5.7 in boots
Glacier travel over moderate terrain in crampons
Ability to carrying a heavy pack (up to 35 lbs on trail 20 lbs on route)
Overnight bivouacs on route
Ability to handle exposure
CLASSIC NORTH CASCADE OBJECTIVES
ELDORADO PEAK- East Ridge Mountaineering and the West Arete alpine test piece, Photo: John Scurlock
Eldorado Peak 8868FT / 2717M
East Ridge (II steep snow) -MOUNTAINEERING ROUTE
West Arete - (III 5.8)- ALPINE ROCK
This remote peak is predominantly climbed via a classic mountaineering route the East Ridge (II Glacier Travel 1-3 days). Additionally this peak has more challenging routes for alpinist such as the West Arete (III 5.8 2-3 days) , the the Northeast Ridge, the coveted seasonal West Face Couloir alpine ice route.
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2
Standard Duration: 3-days+ 1/2 day prep
MOUNT SHUKSAN- The Fischer Chimney route is the perfect line to step out of glacier mountaineering into alpine climbing Photo: Daniel Bynum
MT. Shuksan, 9131FT / 2783m
Fischer Chimneys Route (III 5.3) - ALPINE ROCK
A perfect combo of glacier and moderate rock climbing is a dramatic Cascade setting to the summit of the 10th highest peak in Washington. This route climbs one of the steeper aspects of the peak has on route bivouacs. This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and is typically a 3-day outing with stunning views of the Puget Sound.
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2
Standard Duration: 3-days+ 1/2 day prep
MOUNT TRIUMPH- The Northeast Ridge is a classic Cascadian ridge route. The East fase holds modern multi pitch climbing in a remote setting: Photo John Scurlock
Mount Triumph 7270ft / 2216m
Northeast Ridge (III 5.6) - ALPINE ROCK
East Face (II 5.8)- ALPINE ROCK
This is normally a 2-3 day adventure on routes less traveled. Despite its low elevation this mountain retains dynamic alpine terrain similar to its larger neighbors in the Picket Range. The Northeast Ridge (III 5.6 2-3 days) is yet another classic moderate ridge run up a North Cascade Icon. The positions during the climb offer breathtaking views of Mt. Baker and the Picket Range. The East Face hold a modern (II 5.8 2-3 days) alpine rock route for those seeking more vertical and more direct routes to the summit.
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2
Standard Duration: 2-days+ 1/2 day prep
MOUNT BUCKNER-The North face of this large Cascade peak holds two steep routes of varying difficulty. The remote location and steeper nature make it a outstanding challenge. Photo: John Scurlock
SAHALE-Buckner-Traverse 9112Ft / 2777m
V 5.4, steep neve’ 50 degrees- ALPINE ICE
Mount Buckner’s is the 11th highest peak in the state and a crown jewel. Its North Face holds two routes the North Face a (III steep neve’ 50 degrees) climb of moderate difficulty and the North Couloir (III AI2) a more challenging autumn alpine ice climb. During the travevers we summit Sahale peak (II 5.4) in approach to gain the infamous Boston-Sahale col and gain the massive Boston Glacier. The climb is an odyssey which carries-over both peaks and descends the South Face of Bucker into Horseshoe Basin and the Davenport Glacier
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2
Standard Duration: 3-days+ 1/2 day prep
Mount Goode- Some argue the this glacial alpine rock climb is best all inclusive cascadian experience. Photo John Roper
Mt. Goode 9,220 ft / 2,804m
Northeast Buttress- III 5.6- ALPINE ROCK
The 9th highest peak in the state sits in the deep center of North Cascades holding outstanding relief on the North face. Most people climb this via the South Couloir (II 5.4) but most revered route is Mt. Goode’s Northeast Buttress. This is a Cascadian alpine ultra-marathon. The diversity of overland travel by glaciers long moderate exposed climbing (III 5.6 3-days) with constant changing vistas ranks this endeavor as one of the most classic alpine objectives in the entire range. To top it off this peak can be climbed via boat access on the Parks East entrance
Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2
Standard Duration: 3-days+ 1/2 day prep
MOUNT CHALLENGER- One of the most remote peaks in the lower 48. This is a perfect group or solo expedition for those seeking to experience the Cascade in their purest form. Photo Andy Porter
Mount Challenger 8,207 ft / 2,501m
Challenger Glacier- III 5.6- MOUNTAINEERING ROUTE
This peak’s adventure is not the difficulty rather the isolation. Located in the Northern Picket Range Mount Challenger is one of the top two most remote locations in lower-48. The expedition starts by accessing the trailhead by boat via the Ross Lake Recreation area. Your team will hike several miles through North Cascade old growth during two day approach in a glacially carved valley to your main objective. From our camp at treeline the team traverses the Whatcom Glacier on Whatcom Peak and then onto the mighty Challenger Glacier to the summit. This is an amazing 5-day, group or solo, adventure into the North Cascades.
Guide to Client Ratio: 3:1-6:2
Standard Duration: 5-days+ 1/2 day prep
All programs are subject to The Mountain Bureau Terms & Conditions
“Mountain Bureau Guides are highly credentialed and excellent at guiding on a personal level. Both domestically and abroad, and you won't be disappointed.”
-Cokie B.
