Intellect + poise in spades, shining a light on the important minutia

of all things climbing

In the this episode of the Peak Season Podcast we showcase a interview with Derek Debruin, an understated critical thinker, passionate climber and advocate for quality and integrity in our world of climbing culture and education. Derek is the recreation manager at Weber State University, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide and Assistant Team Lead for Weber county SAR.

Derek’s expertise and unrelenting attention to detail, combined with ability to synthesize and translate data to all of those who utilize a rope in the mountain environment make Derek a gem, and incredible resource to the climbing community. His work with Weber state allows him to indulge in technical climbing systems and human factors associated with climbing.

Dereks research includes replication studies that help to refine our understanding of now commonly used techniques in climbing. One paper in particular highlights the problematic configurations of the quad anchor when used traditional climbing equipment. That paper can be found here. This paper makes us take a closer look at when the most appropriate time to apply to the quad actually is. A full list of Derek’s work can be found here . Derek has also published work with Climbing magazine and a handful of other publications with both technical and narrative focused articles. This is an article that was featured by climbing magazine featuring the girth hitch master point.

Derek doesn’t boast, but we can say he certainly has an envy-able resume. He has established two size-able routes on the the 2,200’ Notch Peak, in Utah’s infamous West Desert. Notch peak comes in second only to El Capitan in Yosemite National Park for vertical drop. Derek also has made international climbing trips to the Canadian Rockies and Argentina.

The routes that Derek established on Notch peak include, Eastern Soft-Boy (a play on the well traveled route “Western Hardman”)which climbs the lower North face and climbs up to 5.10+ over 12 pitches. A link to the Topo can be here. His other route “prowd enough”, climbs a prominent prow to that forms the name sake “notch” in notch peak. Prowd Enough manages to find a way up the foreboding looking prow with difficulites to 5.10+ (Photos and Overlay below) Also both routes and more information on the area can be found on Mountain Project.

To give you a sense of Derek’s articulate and thoughtful insight into managing risk in mountain environments, check out his Ted Talk before listening to the podcast.