Mountain Bureau LLC

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Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys Route

Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys Route

Mt. Shuksan’s Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. Photo Daniel Bynum

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MT. Shuksan, 9131FT / 2783m

Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. This non-volcanic North Cascades Peak offers access to a wide span of glaciated and rock terrain for climbing. A perfect combination of glacier and moderate rock climbing in a dramatic Cascade setting. This route climbs one of the steeper aspects of the peak and has an on-route bivouac. This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound.

Details

Location: Mount Shuksan
Ratio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. 4 climbers)
Length: 3 days + 1/2 day travel and prep
Cost: $2247.00 per person - 1 Climber/1 Guide
$1347.00 per person - 2 Climbers/1 Guide
$1647.00 per person - 3 Climbers/2 Guides
$1347.00 per person - 4 Climbers/2 Guides
Dates: June 5-8, 2024
August 2-5, 2024

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Itinerary

Prep Day - Travel to the Skagit Valley, WA. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. We will get your pack to a comfortable weight and have time to answer any questions you may have.
Day 1 - Travel to the trailhead, near Artist Point at 4,600’, in the heart of the North Cascades. The team then hikes south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). Trail may be snow covered in early season. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to Lake Ann. Pushing past Lake Ann, the group will climb another 2,000 ft to their camp above the Lower Curtis Glacier; 4.8 Miles, +2,500’ Elevation Gain, 4 Hrs Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight
Day 2 - In the alpine air, training clinics will begin. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. After the clinics the team will apply their new skills with a move to high camp; 1.5 Mile, +1,500’ Elevation Gain, 4 Hours Skills Session, with 2 Hours of Travel TIme.
Day 3 - Summit Day! Pre-dawn alpine start form High Camp ascending the glaciers to the Summit of 9131’ with light summit packs. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100’ Elevation Gain, -6,900’ Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight


Includes

  • Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone

  • Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip

  • All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain

  • Tents

  • Stoves and fuel

  • All group climbing equipment

  • Emergency communication

Excludes

  • Personal climbing and camping equipment

  • Lunches and snacks on the mountain

  • Transport to and from the trailhead

  • Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip

Activity Requirements

No previous mountaineering experience required
Moderate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000’
Travel over moderate glacial terrain
Rock Scrambling in boots or crampons
Ability to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)
Overnight camping in tents

Activity Resources

Download Sample Gear List

Recommended Pre-Trip Training Plan


north cascades national park

This is our happy place. At more than 500,000 acres, the North Cascades National Park consists of a lifetime of Alpine Mountaineering and Alpine Rock Climbing. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. This offers an attractive climbing venue with significant relief and majestic views. The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park. This area is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular. Access to large portions of North Cascades National Park are limited and it is difficult in peak season to acquire access to popular climbs. The Mountain Bureau secures backcountry permit reservations with the National Park Service for all of our scheduled climbs so you don’t have to worry about access.

Johannesburg Mountain in the background during an ascent of the Torment-Forbidden-Traverse Photo: Mark Allen


All scheduled programs can also be booked with custom dates and itineraries. Please see our Custom Guiding pages for more information or Contact Us for a custom program.

All programs are subject to the Mountain Bureau LLC Terms & Conditions